I NEED To Try This One

Yes, I am taking a break from my Tartine journey today.  Have i abandoned the journey???  No!  But my starter is still but a somewhat stinky jar of paste, and my love for good bread is still alive and well.  And Geri is asking "When are you going to get back to baking?  You've been playing with that culture for a week now, and i'm just not seeing any fresh bread!". Good point.  Plus another work week approaches, and we are going to need sandwiches for lunch.  Ah yes, i have become a slave to the wild yeast. 

So, in order to service the need for food, and my desire to try something new, I just fed my traditional starter with 50/50 UBF/WW.  The plan is to make my old standby, which uses UAPF and rye, with UAPF and WW.  That's the experimental part of this long weekend.  Will my traditional UAPF-based starter like the wheat?  I think it will.  But i will find out!

And to feed my creative side, i am going to try this wonderful looking roasted garlic bread, from one of my favorite bread blogs, The Wild Yeast Blog.  The Fresh Loaf (www.thefreshloaf.com) is where I usually turn for my daily fix of sourdough knowledge.  But the Wild Yeast Blog has some amazing information as well.  My " go-to" bread is actually adapted from a recipe that I found there.  Credit where credit is due.  And someday soon I will post something on that recipe and my variation.  But for today, it is time to try something interesting!

http://www.wildyeastblog.com/2008/10/16/roasted-garlic-bread/

Time For A Little Culture!

If there was any doubt at all that what I showed in my last post was a "culture" as opposed to a "starter", any and all doubt was removed the moment that I took the lid off the jar.  A sourdough starter has a slightly sweet and very pleasant smell that resembles beer.

What I encountered when I removed the lid of my jar was...  unpleasant.  We've all returned from a long trip, only to discover that we left some vegetables in the crisper drawer of the fridge, and in our absence they have turned into a foul smelling puddle of slime.  Ok, maybe you haven't.  But I certainly have.  The odor being emitted by my jar of flour and water most closely resembled the odor of rotting vegetables.  This is perhaps not a real surprise.  After all, I took mixed plant-based food with water, set it on my counter, and essentially allowed it to start rotting.  Now there is a battle being waged for the heart and soul of my future sourdough starter.

The evolution of a starter is complex, and proceeds through a number of stages.  From an observational perspective it goes something like this:

1. Flour and water get mixed
2. Eventually bubbles form, and the mixture starts to rise.  It smells foul.
3. You take a small amount of the noxious mixture (discarding the rest), and add it to yet more flour and water.
4. The whole thing appears to die.  A few small bubbles may form, but the mixture does not rise substantially.
5. You continue to dispose of most of the mixture each day, and add the remaining mixture to a 50/50 mix of flour and water (by weight only, please!)
6. Eventually the smell of the mixture changes to something resembling vinegar.
7. You continue to dispose of most of the mixture each day, and add the remaining mixture to a 50/50 mix of flour and water
8. Suddenly the odor changes from vinegar to beer, and the mixture begins to rise again.  This is the point at which your "culture" has turned into a "starter".

Underneath the observational perspective, there is a lot going on.  From the very beginning, a war is being fought between various bacteria, and yeast.  The early rising of the mixture (Stage 2 above) is primarily driven by bacteria.  In these early stages the bacterial activity is largely driven by lactobacillus, which is the same bacterium responsible for the fermentation and souring of yogurt. At the same time there is some yeast activity as well.

As the culture continues to mature, the digestion of the flour by the lactobaccilus decreases the pH of the mixture.  Lower pH means more acid content.  At some point the mix is acidic enough to be a hostile environment for most bacteria, and many strains of yeast.  At this point the acetobacteria (the bacteria responsible for vinegar) take hold, further reducing the pH of the culture.  This is Stage 6, above.  

Now we're getting close.  Our culture is now acidic enough that the range of bacteria and yeast that can thrive in it is very limited.  The battle is now down to lactobaccilus, acetobacter, and yeast.  Stage 8 is reached when a stable balance, between the 3, is reached.  When Stage 8 is reached, you are ready to make bread!

So, what does this process look like?  Let's go to the game film!  My last post took us through Stage 2, so we'll pick up our coverage at #3 above, in which we feed a fresh mix of flour and water to a sample of the noxious compound produced earlier.

We start by putting a small amount of "noxious mixture" into a mixing bowl.

Now we add some water.  As we're working toward a "starter", we need to start establishing a proper hydration level.  In my case I work with starter that is at 100% hydration, meaning that it is a mix of 50% water and 50% flour by weight.  So, with that in mind, we weight the water.  Here, 100 grams of water has been added.

 

Yeast, bacterial, and other living things love oxygen, so we give them a good head start in life by whisking the mixture to dissolve the paste into the flour.

Now comes the food.  We add the same amount of flour, by weight, as the water.  So, in this case, we add 100 grams of flour.

Now we mix it up, and dump it into the jar to grow!

Fast forward to the next day, and here's what we have.  The mixture is no longer noxious smelling, but it is not rising much anymore.  And it has taken on a vinegar odor.  We're well on the way to a starter!

Now the trick is to not get impatient.  This takes time!  Each day a small amount of the fermented culture must be added to a 50/50 mix of flour and water.  I'll be back in a few days when the whole thing reaches equilibrium and starts to rise!

Well That Didn't Take Long!

When I created my first sourdough culture, two years ago, it was a drawn out and somewhat frustrating experience.  I made the mistake of using a very small amount of bleached all purpose flour, with a lot of water, in a bowl.  Days passed without anything happening.  Following advice that I'd found somewhere, I started exchanging half the volume of the mixture every day.  More days passed, and still nothing happened.  Then I came across some new advice:  Add some whole grain flour, make a thicker mixture, and leave it alone until something happens!  That did the trick.  Within a day I started to see activity, which was eventually coaxed into the starter that I've been using since then.

Yesterday I began building the culture that will form the basis of my new starter.  The instructions in Tartine Bread closely align with the method that eventually yielded success two years ago:  the inclusion of whole wheat flour, and a thick mixture.  The book states that something should happen in "2 to 3 days".

Well, here's what I awoke to this morning:

It is alive!  As the yeast begin to multiply, they feed on the protein in the flour in a process called fermentation.  The byproduct of fermentation is carbon dioxide gas, which forms bubbles within the flour/water mixture.  And the expansion of these gas bubbles causes the mixture to expand.  As you can see in the picture above, the mixture has risen approximately a half inch.  Here's the view from the top:

You can see that a few of the larger gas bubbles have risen to the top.  And looking at the side of the jar, you can see one of the reasons that a clear glass jar is the ideal vessel for this process:

Those small bubbles show you what is going on within the body of the paste.

If you look at the label on the side of the jar, you'll note that it has only been a bit over 18 hours since I started the culture.  Why are things so far ahead of schedule?  There are several answers.

First, it's possible that the inside of the jar had some yeast spores already in it.  When yeast find themselves without food, they go into a dormant phase.  All that is necessary to revive them is the addition of food and water.  Providing them with a couple of cups of flour and water would do the trick.  However, this jar had been washed thoroughly with soap and hot water, so that's not likely to be the reason for the aggressive yeast growth.

Second, the culture that I started yesterday contains fresh whole wheat flour.  Few things contain more yeast than whole grain flours, so it's likely that this culture had a good head start in life.

Finally, the culture was build with bread flour.  Bread flour is all purpose flour that contains more protein than normal all purpose flour.  And yeast love protein!

All of those factors, when combined, add up to success.

The question is whether it is a problem if the growth of the culture is due to "contamination" from yeast spores already present in the jar.  The answer is no.  The goal is to develop a healthy culture of yeast that are compatible with the flours being used in your starter.  Whether those yeast arrived with the flour, or were present in the vessel, as long as they love the food that they are being fed you have achieved your goal.  You don't really need to worry about where the yeast came from.

Many people are proud of their "100 year old San Francisco sourdough starter that great grandfather Zeke brought back from California after the gold rush".  There's something to be said for caring for a starter for 100 years, but it would be a mistake to believe that it's the same starter that left San Francisco all those years ago.  Sourdough starters all contain the same species of yeasts and bacteria, but the strains vary from place to place.  And the factors that control the strains in any given starter are temperature, pH of the starter, and the flours used to feed the starter.  In other words the yeast and bacteria present in the starter that came back from California after the gold rush have long ago been replaced by the strains present in the flour that has been fed to the starter in the meantime.  This process doesn't even take years.  A couple of feedings will do it.

In the case of the culture that I'm building, it's likely that the source of the yeast is the whole wheat flour that I started with yesterday.  But even if it was "contamination", I don't have to worry.  Once fermentation gets underway, the natural yeasts present in flour would win the day.

So what's next?

The culture is still very young.  There is obviously some yeast growth taking place.  But there is also some bacterial growth taking place.  A healthy sourdough starter contains a mixture of yeast and bacteria that exist in a balance that is dictated by the pH (level of acidity) of the starter.  Right now the yeast and the bacteria are locked in a battle to decide who will win.  In the end it will be a stalemate.  But more on that in the next post.

First Steps On The Journey

The first step of any journey is usually the easiest.  This is definitely the case in sourdough bread making.  In this case the first step is the creation of a "culture".  Although it takes some patience, it's not difficult.  If you ever mixed dirt and water as a child, to make mud pies, you already have all of the skills necessary to create a sourdough culture.  Successfully creating a culture then leads to the second step, which is the creation of a starter.  But let's not get ahead of ourselves.  Back to the culinary mud pies.

There is a common myth that sourdough cultures are created by "capturing wild yeast out of the air". This is simply not true.  While there may be some wild yeast spores floating about in the air around you, it would take a very long time to capture enough of them to create a sourdough starter. Fortunately, there is a better way.

Wheat, as it is growing, supports a healthy population of wild yeasts that grow right on the outside of the wheat kernels themselves.  When the wheat is harvested, and milled into flour, some of this wild yeast makes its way all the way through the process into the flour that you purchase.  The less the flour has been been processed, the more yeast makes its way to that bag of flour in your kitchen.  Whole grain flours, such as whole wheat and rye, as well as minimally processed flours such as unbleached all purpose flour, contain the healthiest yeast populations.

The first step in creating a sourdough starter is to create a yeast culture by encouraging the growth and reproduction of the wild yeast in your flour.  The internet is replete with methods for accomplishing this feat.  Many involve mixing flour with water and an acidic liquid such as pineapple juice. However, the most straightforward method is simply to mix flour and water, cover it, and place it in an environment that is comfortable for the yeast. Then you simply wait.  The use of acidic liquids can sometimes speed up the process.  However, they simply aren't necessary.  I can assure you that when bakers in ancient England were making naturally leavened breads, pineapple juice was not part of the process.

Personally I find bread making to be a rather zen experience.  Using nothing more than flour, water, salt, heat and time you can create one of the most desired foods ever created by humanity. Enjoy the experience! If I want bad bread, really fast, I'd go buy it at the store.  But if I want good bread, and want to enjoy the experience of crafting it from the most basic ingredients, I'm not going to rush the experience. My starter will be ready when it is ready.

So this afternoon I began the creation of the yeast culture that will eventually be used to create my new starter.  Here's how it goes:

• In a glass jar, place equal amounts (by weight!) of unbleached bread flour and whole wheat flour

• Add lukewarm water (unchlorinated please), and use your hands to mix the flour and water until all lumps are removed.  You want to end up with something that resembles very thick pancake batter.  Add more or less water until you reach this consistency.

• Scrape down the sides of the jar, then cover loosely.  I use a glass jar with a loose fitting glass lid.  Some people cover their containers with a kitchen towel held in place with a rubber band.  Either method is fine.  You just want to keep dust and other contaminants out, and keep most of the moisture in.

• Place your jar someplace cool and dark.  By "cool" I mean somewhere around the high 60s or low 70s.  

• Now you wait.  

If all goes well, the next step will happen in 2-3 days.  The "next step" is feeding the young culture, so that it can mature into a sourdough starter.  You'll know that it's time for the next step when you note some bubbles forming in the mixture, and it takes on a tangy sour smell that resembles over-ripe cheese. At that point your culture is in the midst of the first of a number of microbial evolutions that will eventually culminate with the establishment of a healthy sourdough starter.  But I'll get to those details when the time comes.  In the meantime, I'll move on to a few pieces of practical advice.

Whenever I'm working with starter (or in this case just a culture), I try to work in a container that has straight sides.  My vessel of choice is a glass "cookie jar" style jar that has a loose fitting glass lid. Using a container with straight sides allows you to easily determine how much a starter has risen.  A clear container allows you to see the gas bubbles, and observe the structure of the starter or dough as it rises.

I've also adopted a practice of labeling the container with wide freezer-style masking tape as seen here.

The label serves a number of purposes.  First, I place the label so that the top of the tape is even with the top of starter.  As the starter rises, I can easily see how far it has risen.  In general, a starter is ready to use when it has doubled in volume.  The tape allows me to measure the rise.

Second, the labeling on the tape contains information that helps me keep things straight when I'm working with multiple starters or multiple doughs.  The label includes the date and time that the starter (or dough) was mixed, the ingredients, and the hydration level. The left side of the label above indicates that the starter was mixed on 6/28 at 1:30 in the afternoon.  The right side of the label indicates that the starter contains whole wheat flour (WW) and unbleached bread flour (UBF).  Unless noted, they are in equal proportions (by weight!)  If I were using all purpose flour (APF), unbleached all purpose flour (UAPF) or rye flour (R), the label would indicate so.  

Finally, the label indicates that the mix is at 100% hydration (equal amounts of flour and water, by weight).  Hydration is an underappreciated measure that is actually critical to making good bread with consistent results.  I'll have more on that as I progress through this process.

One final piece of advice before I close out this column.  Several times, above, I've noted "by weight". This is critically important if you want to be able to eventually create good breads on a consistent basis.  The reason is simple.  The ratio of water to flour is one of the most important factors in determining the final texture of your bread.  And you simply can't ensure a consistent ratio without measuring by weight.  Don't believe me?  Measure out a cup of flour and place it in a large glass.  Now measure a second cup of flour and place it in a second glass.  Now take that second glass and shake it from side to side for about a minute.  Afterward, observe how much the flour in one glass has settled relative to the other glass.  You started with the same volume measure of flour, but one is now much more compacted than the other.  A cup's worth of that compacted flour, when mixed with water, would yield a much drier and firmer dough.  If you want to be able to reproduce your successes, you absolutely must measure your ingredients by weight.

Enough!  I'll be back in a few days when my mud pie starts to turn into something interesting.

A New Quest!

This past weekend I had the great privilege of visiting Tartine Bakery, in the Mission District of San Francisco.  In 2008, Tartine's owners Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt took home the James Beard Award for being the best pastry chefs in the country, after having been nominated for a number of years prior.

Elisabeth is the pastry chef of the pair.  The pastry shelves in front of the bakery are refreshed throughout the day with amazing, if pricey, treats.

Pastry is something that, although it impresses me, is something that I simply have no interest in being proficient at.  Perhaps it requires a degree of artistry that I just don't possess.  Whatever the reason, I leave pastry to others with more of a passion for sweets.  

Yes, that is a $66 Lemon Meringue!

This is a bakery that is so well known that it does not even have a sign on the outside of the building, and anytime that the bakery is open there is a line out the door and around the corner. When I arrived at 11:30, there was a line of perhaps 50 people in front of me.  And during the hour that I was there for lunch, the line never grew any shorter.

But before you start to wonder what a discussion of the top bakery in America has to do with a sourdough baking blog, let me explain.  In culinary terms "pastry" does not just mean "sweets and desserts".  While Elisabeth Prueitt is the master behind the amazing treats pictured above, Chad Robertson is regarded by most as the modern day master of naturally leavened (aka "wild yeast", aka "sourdough") artisan bread.  Prior to opening Tartine in 2002, Robertson spent over a decade doing apprentice work for some of the most highly regarded bread bakers in the U.S. and Europe, and founded and ran two very successful bakeries in northern California.  This man knows his bread, and people come from far and wide to purchase it.  That line of 50 people that I encountered when I arrived at 11:30 last Sunday morning?  If I'd been there just a bit later in the day, it would have been far larger.  Tartine's bread comes out of the ovens at 4:30 every afternoon.  In just over an hour the day's bake (a couple thousand loaves) is sold out.  You can't simply get in line to buy Tartine bread.  You must call in advance to reserve a loaf (or a half loaf).

A few years ago Chad took on an apprentice by the name of Eric Wolfinger, who also happened to be a first rate photographer.  Together they set out to build a modern day bible of artisan bread baking.  The result is "Tartine Bread", of which (following my visit to Tartine Bakery!) I am now a proud owner.

"Tartine Bread" documents what has come to be known as "the Tartine Method" of making bread.  The Tartine Method uses solely natural yeast, high hydration doughs, minimal mechanical mixing, small amounts of mature starter, young leaven, very high heat, and high degrees of steam during baking to produce a very mild sourdough with a spongy open crumb and a very crisp blistered glistening outer crust (see the picture above).  In recent years this style of bread has come to define the holy grail of artisan bread baking.

Over the course of the past two years I've learned to make what is, in my judgement, some very good bread.  We no longer buy store bought bread here at home.  Each week I bake fresh bread that turns into sandwiches for the following week.  Special events, social gatherings, even some charity events, all rate fresh baked bread.  But while I've learned to make very good bread, it's still relatively basic.  

Anyone who has ever attended culinary school will tell stories of the first several weeks of school, in which they learned to cook eggs 30 different ways.  The theory being that properly cooking an egg requires mastery of a range of basic techniques, a mastery of the use of heat, and a mastery of certain food related chemistry.  

Bread is much the same.  If you want to learn to make great bread, you must first master the basics.  This is especially true of sourdough, and other yeast leavened breads.  Time, temperature, dough hydration, dough shaping, gluten formation, pH, and physical techniques such as loaf forming, slashing technique, and steaming all play into successful bread.  It's impossible to master these variables unless you make the same bread time after time after time, and learn from the successes and failures each time.  With practice, and careful observation, it's possible to use the very same recipe and yet vary the density of the crumb, the color, crispness and depth of the crust, the degree of sourness, and the texture.  After baking the same bread for close to two years, I've started to gain some minimal proficiency.  So now it is time for the next challenge.

In "Tartine Bread", Chad Robertson begins with the techniques necessary to create what he terms the "Tartine Country Loaf".  Throughout the remainder of the book he explains how to vary the basic country loaf to create more exotic and advanced breads, as well as how to create a wide variety of dishes that use bread as an ingredient.

So, my new quest:  To bake my way through "Tartine Bread".  This will take a while.  It's not a matter of creating one recipe a week.  First, I need to go back to the beginning and apply what I've learned, up to this point, to master the Tartine Country Loaf.

Today I began.  The first step on the journey is a new sourdough starter.  My old starter is not going anywhere.  I'll simply have two starters that are used for different styles of bread.

While my older starter has unbleached all purpose flour and rye as its basis, the new starter is built on unbleached bread flour and whole wheat flour.  The bread flour contributes more protein than all purpose flour (APF), which in turn results in greater gluten formation during the bread making process.  Gluten is the basis of the "hole" structure in bread (technically known as "crumb"), so greater gluten formation results in more trapped gas during fermentation and dough rising, and thus larger holes.  Whole wheat flour, in addition to contributing a different flavor than rye, also contributes protein (and thus gluten).  Rye contains little protein, and thus contributes primarily flavor.

This will be interesting!  The quest to bake my way through Tartine Bread will occupy many blog posts.  Let the baking begin!

17 Pounds of Dough, 17 Hours of Baking

So, this is the end result.

Last night, after 13 straight hours of dough preparation, I put 17 1/2 pounds of dough in the cool of the basement to rise.  This afternoon, 4 hours of baking turned all that dough into 14 loaves of fluffy, crunchy, tasty rustic bread!

This is my "go-to" bread.  When I started baking sourdough bread, just over a year ago, I decided that I would focus on one basic recipe and learn to make it the best that I possibly could.  By "basic" I don't mean that it is lacking in any way.  At this point I've learned enough to feel confident in putting this bread up against most of the fine baked breads that I've been served in restaurants.  Rather, I mean that it is a recipe that is long on technique, but short on extras.

In the past year I've learned quite a bit.  A few lessons stand out.

First, "sourdough bread" doesn't have to mean "sour bread".  Too many people confuse the two.  A better term is probably "bread made with wild yeast".  The fact is that until the early 1850s, ALL bread was technically sourdough.  The yeast used in bread making was cultured from the natural yeasts found on all grains.  "Bread made from wild yeast" is what I make.

Second, there are many ways to vary the flavor of sourdough bread.  In fact in the past year the most interesting parts of my Sourdough Adventure have entailed learning to use time, temperature, and dough hydration to adjust the flavor of my bread.  Maintaining a sourdough starter at warmer temperatures creates a starter that favors yeast growth at the expense of lactobacillus bacteria (the same bacteria that give yogurt its flavor).  Cooler temperatures retard yeast growth and give the lactobacillus the upper hand.  The same is true of "proofing", or the process of rising the dough after the starter is added to it.  Temperature is also used to control the rise time of the dough.  Cooler temperatures slow the rise and result in a more sour bread.  Warmer temperature speed the rise, and result in a very mild bread.  Either way you end up with a bread that is more flavorful than that produced by commercial rapid rise yeast.  And either way it takes longer.  Commercial yeast will produce bread that is ready for baking in 2-3 hours.  Using wild yeast produces a better bread, but at the cost of time.  Proofing (rising) times of 12-36 hours are not uncommon.

Third, it is impossible to understate the importance of learning to properly shape dough when forming loaves.  Proper shaping creates a firm membrane on the dough that allows for proper rise.  Neglect proper shaping, and the loaf will fall flat.

Finally, a proper technique when slashing the dough (cutting slits in the top of the dough just prior to baking) has an incredible impact on the "oven spring", or amount of rise that the bread experiences during baking.  Early in my sourdough adventure I simply cut a slit in the dough.  The results were not good.  It turns out that the angle of the cut, the depth of the cut, and the relative placement of multiple cuts all play into the quality of the final product.

There are many other great lessons that I could name.  The importance of steam in the oven during the initial phases of baking would be one.  The effect of dough hydration on rise would be another.  And an interesting concept called "stretch and fold", and it's importance in working with high hydration doughs would be yet another.

In time I plan to cover all of these discoveries in detail.  But for today I'm happy to have over a dozen loaves of bread that are headed off to support a great cause tomorrow.  I sure hope they sell!  If they don't, I don't want to know about it...

Planning For "The Big Bake"

Tonight I planned out the timeline for this weekend's bake.  Normally this would not be so complex.  But this weekend is special: On Sunday I'll be baking a dozen mild sourdough loaves for a fundraiser to benefit the Wounded Warrior Program.  This one needs to go right!

The process began on Tuesday, when I began the starter build.  By the time that dough assembly starts tomorrow afternoon, I'll have roughly 3 1/2 pounds of fully fed starter!  Dough assembly, stretching and folding, and loaf shaping will take me though until nearly midnight.  Sunday afternoon we can turn off the furnace and heat the house with the oven for a few hours!

This should be a lot of fun!  And it's for a really great cause.